EATING OUT

BREAKFAST

Breakfast (zajtrk) is usually included in the price of a hotel room and consists of bread / bread rolls (kruh/žemlje), butter (surovo maslo), and jam (marmelada), served with coffee (kava) and milk or tea. You can ask that breakfast be brought to your room or have it in the dining room.

Some gostilnas open early to accomodate people going to work. There you may order:

Espresso is the type of coffee most commonly served. Turkish coffee is also served, especially in the absence of an espresso machine. The way to order is:

SNACK

Around 10 p.m. people take a snack (malica/prigrizek), which for some may be breakfast and for others already lunch. At this time hot dishes are served in snack bars (buffet/bife/okrepčevalnica/bistro). You can order:

Local people may eat more hearty dishes since their next meal is likely to be around 3 p.m. or later when they return home from work. For example:

As a rule you pay after eating. Remember to tell the waitress how many slices of bread you have eaten:

Also around 10 a.m. those who are taking it easy go to a slaščičarna (pastry shop) or kavarna (Viennese-type coffee shop) to enjoy:

At outdoor stands you can buy:

RESTAURANTS

Restaurants (restavracija/gostilna) are open for lunch (kosilo) between 12 and 3 p.m. You can also have lunch in snack bars and pizzerias. Dinner (večerja) is served between 6 and 9 p.m. Many gostilnas are closed Mondays or Tuesdays.

On a restaurant menu (jedilni list) you may find in addition to a la carte dishes (jedi po naročilu) one or more specials (menu I, II, etc.) Better restaurants will have a separate wine list (vinska karta). Slovenians going out to gostilna just for a drink do not split the cost, one picks up the tab. At lunch, one person generally pays for the wine. A tip is appropriate for good service. A small tip is expected in restrooms with an attendant.

Pizzas are usually consumed with beer:

Dishes are usually grouped under the following headings:

Soup is usually the first course of a meal. For somewhat special occasions or when eating out, soup is either replaced or preceded by an appetizer. This could be a plate of kraški pršut (thinly sliced dried ham): you may be familiar with the Italian prosciutto, but note that the best such air-dried ham comes from the Kras, an area north of Trieste, known for its dry wind burja. The same area produces a purple-red wine called teran, which goes especially well with pršut. Other very good appetizers are domača salama (home-style salami), šunka (boiled ham), and želodec (slices of large pork sausage). While visiting relatives or friends you may be offered such smoked meats, called narezek, served with wine, any time during the afternoon or evening.

domača šunka s hrenom home-cured ham with horseradish
tatarski biftek beefsteak tartare
govedina v solati beef vinaigrette
francoska solata cubed potatoes and vegetables with mayonnaise
bohinjski sir Bohinj cheese
riba v marinadi marinated fish

The most commonly consumed soup is beef or chicken broth with egg noodles (rezanci) or other additions (zakuhe). Thick chicken or veal soup (obara, or. coll. ajmoht) can be a meal in itself. Obara is akin to Creole chicken-gumbo, however, without okra (see further on for the recipe). I would suggest you try gobova juha v krušni skodeli (mushroom soup in a bowl made of bread).

kokošja juha chicken broth
goveja juha beef broth
kostna juha bone soup
z domačimi rezanci with home-made noodles
z zdrobovimi žličniki with farina dumplings
z vraničnimi cmoki with spleen dumplings
gobova juha cream of mushroom soup
prežganka browned flour soup
obara gravy soup
blejska/bohinjska juha soup Bled/Bohinj fashion
kremna juha cream of vegetables soup
paradižnikova juha tomato soup
porova juha leek soup
fižolova juha kidney-bean soup
grahova juha pea soup

Pork and beef are the most commonly consumed meats (meso). Veal is the most appreciated. Viennese breaded cutlet (dunajski zrezek), which used to be made with veal, is now made with pork or turkey. Breaded or plain cutlets remain the staple fare of most restaurants. As elsewhere on the Continent, organ meats (kidneys, liver, etc.) are consumed with gusto. Deer (srna or jelen), usually prepared with sauce and served with wild cranberries (brusnice), is among the most popular game dishes, as well as divjačinski golaž made of bear meat. Some restaurants serve steaks made from the meat of colt (žrebičkov zrezek).

svinjski zrezek pork cutlet
telečji zrezek veal cutlet
pariški zrezek cutlet fried in egg batter (literally: Paris style cutlet)
ljubljanski zrezek breaded cutlet with cheese (literally: Ljubljana style cutlet)
naravni zrezek plain cutlet
meso na žaru grilled/barbecued meats
biftek beefsteak
ražnjiči shishkebob
čevapčiči spicy meatballs combining beaf, pork, and lamb
svinjska pečenka/zarebrnica pork roast
na lovski način in the hunter's style
v omaki in sauce
ocvrt/pohan piščanec fried/breaded chicken
pečena piška baked/roasted chicken
dušena divjačina stewed or braised game
polnjen/nadevan zajec stuffed rabbit
pljučna pečenka beef fillet/tenderloin
bržola braised beef
odojek/jagnje/vol suckling pig/mutton/ox
na ražnju on the spit
krača shank
kranjska klobasa Carniolan sausage
domača salama home-made sausage
pečenica bratwurst
krvavica blood sausage
kmečka pojedina a plate of assorted smoked meats with sauerkraut (literally: farmer's feast)
segedin golaž goulash with sauerkraut
sarma cabbage rolls
polnjena paprika stuffed bell pepper
rižota risotto
bujta repa Prekmurje-style sour turnips with pork
jezik tongue
telečje ledvice v omaki stewed veal kidney
suha rebrca smoked pork ribs, served boiled
puran turkey
fazan pheasant
gos/raca goose/duck

Trout (postrv) is the fish you are most likely to find on restaurant menus in the Alpine part of Slovenia. In a number of these restaurants live trout are displayed in glass tanks and priced by weight. Trout is served boiled (kuhana postrv) or pan-fried (pečena postrv). Restaurants along the coast offer a good selection of fresh seafood.

osličev file hake fillet
na tržaški način pan-fried a la Trieste
kalamari/lignji squid
sardele sardines
ciplji mullet
skuše mackerel
v marinadi marinated
zobatec dentex
školjke mussels/clams/etc.
ocvrti žabji kraki fried frog legs
raki crayfish
sipa cuttle-fish
ostrige oysters
jastog lobster
brodet fish soup
tuna tunny
škampi scampi

The salad (solata) is eaten with the main dish, rather than as an appetizer. It has to be ordered unless it is shown on the menu as included with the meal, for example, in a special. The dressing is oil (olje) and vinegar (kis). Tomato, bean, cucumber, and potato salads are usually served with slices of red onion. If you prefer your salad without onion, say: Brez čebule, prosim. Radič, a leaf salad of green or red color with a slightly bitter taste, is much appreciated. During the winter farmers grow it in their barns.

zelena solata lettuce
zeljnata solata shredded cabbage salad
stročji fižol v solati string beans salad
paradižnikova solata tomato salad
srbska solata Serbian salad: tomatoes & green pepper
fižolova solata kidney-bean salad
kisle kumarice dill pickles / cornichons
mešana solata mixed salad
krompirjeva solata potato salad
radič radicchio
kumare cucumber salad
motovilec corn salad
rdeča pesa red beets
redkvice radishes
paprika green pepper

In addition to potatoes, various flour or meal-based dishes are served with certain meats. Thus, the traditional žganci (shredded spoon bread) may be served along with obara, and polenta with goulash. When eaten as a main dish, žganci are topped with cracklings/drippings and served with sauerkraut, salad, or even milk. Chive dumplings (drobnjakovi štruklji), made from rolled dough and filled with cottage cheese and chives, are another Slovenian dish. Game and other meats in sauce are usually served with bread dumplings (kruhovi cmoki).

pražen krompir hashed brown potatoes
pire krompir mashed potatoes
pomfri French fries
krompir v oblicah potatoes in their jackets/skins
z ocvirki / s čebulo with cracklings / with onion
krompir s peteršiljem parsley potatoes
krompirjevi cmoki potato dumplings
riž z žafranom saffron rice
gobova rižota mushroom risotto
špageti spaghetti
testenine/mlinci pasta
ajdovi/koruzni žganci buckwheat/corn žganci
dödöli Prekmurje-style žganci

The variety of available fresh vegetables (zelenjava) can be best appreciated by taking a morning stroll through the Ljubljana farmers' market (tržnica) adjoining the cathedral. A special treat are wild mushrooms, which have been carefully inspected. Many families grow their own vegetables, even in urban areas. Sauerkraut (kislo zelje) and similarly preserved shredded turnips (kisla repa) are popular during the winter.

(stročji) fižol (string) beans
kitajsko zelje Chinese cabbage
(posiljeno) zelje (stewed) cabbage
kislo zelje sauerkraut
kisla/sladka repa sour/sweet turnips
brstični ohrovt Brussel sprouts
cvetača/karfijola cauliflower
paradižnikova omaka tomato sauce
čebulna omaka onion sauce
vinska omaka wine sauce
gobe v omaki mushrooms in sauce
grah sweet peas
špinača spinach
korenje carrots
bučke squash
koleraba kohlrabi
ohrovt kale

The best known traditional Slovenian pastry is potica: baked from raised, rolled dough, it contains walnut, raisin or other filling (see the recipe). Other popular desserts are strudel and palačinke (thin pancakes, usually filled with jam or nuts and topped with chocolate; see the recipe). Some sweet dishes can be meals in themselves, such as češpljevi cmoki (plum dumplings), orehovi/pehtranovi štruklji (walnut/tarragon rolled dumplings; see the recipe) and cesarski praženec, coll. šmoren (shredded pancake with raisins). The latter is usually served with stewed or canned fruit. A number of private pastry shops in Slovenia is operated by Albanians. They make Slovenian-style pastry, their own traditional sweets (for example, baklava), and ice cream (sladoled).

orehova/pehtranova potica walnut/tarragon potica
rozinova/drobnjakova potica raisin/chive potica
ocvirkovka potica with cracklings/drippings
šarkelj molded cake with raisins
sirovi štruklji cheese rolled dumplings
pohorska omleta omelette with whipped cream and fruit
prekmurska gibanica flaky pastry with poppy seed, walnut, apple, and cheese filling
krofi raised doughnuts
flancati deep fried pastry
kremne rezine / kremšnite (coll.) custard pastry
jabolčni/sirov zavitek apple/cheese strudel
mali loški kruhek gingerbread cookie from Škofja Loka
buhteljni sweet rolls
torta torte
pita pie
čežana applesauce
sadna kupa fruit with whipped cream
puding pudding
breskov kompot canned peaches
češpljev kompot stewed plums
čokoladni/vanilijev sladoled chocolate/vanilla ice cream

In Slovenia people usually drink wine or beer with their meals. Children drink juices or soft drinks. As elsewhere in Europe, it is not customary to drink coffee, milk or water during meals. A demi-tasse of coffee is served after lunch. If you want water, say: Navadno vodo (tap water), or: Radensko (a popular brand of mineral sparkling water). Coca-cola is served with a slice of lemon, but without ice. If you want some, say: Z ledom (with ice). A very refreshing fruit drink malinovec is made from raspberries. Malinovec syrup is sold in supermarkets, but if you are lucky enough to taste it home-made, it is even better. Home-made, too, is the syrup from ribez (red currant). A beverage made from elder blossoms is called šabesa. Farmers press apples for apple cider (jabolčnik). When fermented, it is called mošt. A fermented beverage made from honey is called medica. Various herb and flower teas are popular beverages consumed at home. Most of them are used for medicinal purposes. Your relatives or friends will know which one is good for what ails you.

WINE

Slovenia has three wine growing regions: the Coastland (Primorska), Styria (Štajerska), and Lower Carniola (Dolenjska). The Coastland is known for its full-bodied red wines: refošk, kabernet, barbera, teran, and merlot. They are served at room temperature and complement beef, reachly seasoned cheeses, and highly spiced foods. Rebula, beli pinot, and malvazija are white wines. They go well with seafood. Well chilled, most white wines can be served as a spritzer (brizganec / coll. špricar) with ½ wine and ½ club soda. Styria, particulary the area east of Maribor, produces excellent white wines: ljutomerčan, šipon, traminec, laški rizling, and sauvignon. These wines are good with cold cuts and fowl, also very popular on an evening out. Lower Carniola is best known for its light red wine cviček. It is high in acidity and goes well with smoked meats and sausages (kranjske klobase).

Every summer an international wine fair (vinski sejem) is held in Ljubljana. There you can sample wines and enjoy local dishes. St. Martin's day (November 11) is the feast of the new wine. Roasted goose is the traditional meal of the day. Find more on wine at http://www.matkurja.com/projects/wine/.

BEER

Hops (hmelj) grown in the Savinja Valley, east of Celje, are used by Slovenian breweries: Union in Ljubljana, Zlatorog in Laško and other smaller. Because of their high quality, hops from Slovenia are sought after by German and other brewers. Beer is sold in supermarkets in ½ liter returnable bottles and in 0.33 liter bottles or cans. Most gostilnas and snack bars (bife) serve draft beer (točeno pivo).

BRANDY

Farmers distill very potent brandy (žganje) from apples, plums, and cherries. Herb brandies are popular as home medicine, especialy for stomach cramps. Brandies from the Charterhouse of Pleterje are available commercially under the Pleterski brand. One of their specialities is viljamovka (William pear brandy). When pears start to form on the tree, select ones are inserted into a clear bottle attached to the branch. At maturity the bottle is filled with brandy and allowed to age. The pear inside gives the brandy its special taste.

Ask for whiskey, gin, etc. by their original name at a bar or store.