WHERE TO BUY WHAT

Supermarkets, bakeries, dairy shops, butcher shops, etc. can be found in each neighborhood. A few foodstores are open on Sundays. Most towns have a farmers' market (tržnica), an interesting place to visit during the morning hours. Among items offered for sale are wild flowers, plants, herbs, fresh eggs, free-range live poultry, wild mushrooms, and all kinds of berries, depending on the season. Downtown, one can also find gift shops and stores specializing in crystal and china, linen, leather goods, shoes, etc. Boutiques are selling new fashions. Note that the merchandise purchased cannot be returned or exchanged as easily as in the United States. Newsstands carry cigarettes, postcards, and stamps. Prescription and over-the-counter drugs are available only in pharmacies (lekarna). Someone using a particular prescription drug should take along a supply for the trip.

SOUVENIR SHOPPING

You will find many attractive souvenirs (spominki) produced by local craftsmen in gift shops and other specialty stores: for example, black clay ceramics made by potters of Prekmurje, an area in the northeast of Slovenia, or much brighter earthenware from Lower Carniola, to the south of Ljubljana. Especially popular are decorated ceramic wine pitchers of all sizes called majolka. Pipes of richly inlaid wood with silver covers come from Bohinj (gorjuška čedra) as do the decorated cow bells (kravji zvonec). Idrija is known for lace (čipke) and Kropa for its wrought iron articles, such as candle holders and lighting fixtures. Both places are worth a visit. Beehive panels (11" x 5") depicting religious, historical themes and folk satire are unique examples of popular art. Original panels are rare, but excellent copies are available. The functional purpose of these decorated panels (panjske končnice) was to guide bees back to their own beehive. Modern beekeepers paint beehives in solid colors, which they say are easier for the bees to recognize. Beautiful cut crystal is made in Rogaška Slatina. Look for the Rogaška label affixed to each item. Rogaška crystal is sold by Tiffany of New York. Among embroidered articles you will find tea sets (tablecloth and napkins), blouses, dresses, and jackets. Wall hangings of brightly colored wool come in different sizes, from small squares to large rug-size pieces. Of Middle Eastern flavor are coffee sets: china demi-tasses in copper holders, Turkish coffee pot and a copper sugar bowl, all on a copper tray. For doll collectors there are dolls in Slovenian costume and for those wanting to keep their feet warm, woolen slippers with soft leather soles, in red or blue.

You are eligible for a tax-refund on the purchase of goods in value of more than 15,000 SIT. You can find the necessary information on the Internet.

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FARMERS' MARKET

A farmers' market (tržnica) is not only a place to shop for fresh fruit, vegetables, whole and ground grains, spices and flowers, but also a good place for finding original gifts and souvenirs. You will see a large display of wares offered by craftsmen from the countryside: decorated earthenware dishes, flower pots, garden tools—regular and child-size—wooden toys, wicker baskets, brooms, large and small buckets, natural as well as dyed wool, hand-knitted socks and mittens, goose down (puh), straw slippers, straw hats, and more. Wooden household utensils come from the area around Ribnica and are referred to as suha roba. Itinerant salesmen from Ribnica used to carry their goods backpack-fashion to distant towns and villages. You may find wooden figurines of these peddlers in a souvenir shop. Today Ribnica salesmen carry their wares in pick-up trucks to country fairs and farmers' markets. At the Ljubljana farmers' market behind the Cathedral, fruits and flowers are sold under brightly colored umbrellas. Butter, cheeses, cottage cheese made on farms, bread, and eggs are sold in an adjacent ancient hall. In wintertime farmers sell their home-made sauerkraut (kislo zelje) and sour turnips (kisla repa) from large oak barrels. For fish and fresh or smoked meats look in the arcades along Ljubljanica River. Come during the morning hours before the daily supply and hustle-bustle are gone.

Prices for fruit and vegetables are quoted by kilogram (about 2 lbs.) or by half kilogram (about 1 lb). Berries and nuts are sold by the liter (4 cups), ½ liter (2 cups) or ¼ liter (1 cup). Eggs are sold by the piece. In the fall grilled chestnuts are sold at the street corners:

Bolete (Slov. jurček) is a mushroom with a large brown cap, highly prized for its woody aroma. Small boletes are preserved in oil and served with hors d'oeuvres. Small golden chanterelle mushrooms are of apricot color and buttery flavor. Mushrooms must pass inspection before being put on the market. For vegetables, see also the previous chapter.

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Suha roba

FLOWERS, FLOWERS

Slovenians love flowers (rože). You will see potted flowers, such as hanging Carniolan carnations (kranjski nageljni), on many windows and balconies. Housewives shopping in the farmers' market are likely to include a bunch of wild flowers or pussy willows in their purchases. Flowers or potted plants are popular gifts for all occasions: birthday (rojstni dan), nameday (god) or just when visiting friends or relatives. You should have no difficulty finding a flower shop (cvetličarna) selling flowers as well as indoor plants. Prices of flowers are quoted by the piece or the bunch. It is a custom to give flowers in odd-numbered sets (three, five, etc.).

Carnation is the Slovenian national flower, linden tree (lipa) the national tree. White, blue, and red—in this order—are the colors of the Slovenian national flag. Edelweiss (planika), which grows high in the Alps, is protected and forbidden to pick. Chrysantemums (krizanteme) are sold for the first of November—the All Saints' Day—to decorate graves.

NEWSSTAND, TOBACCONIST

Newsstands (trafika/kiosk) sell newspapers, magazines, bus-tokens and telephone cards, tobacco products, postcards, and postage stamps.

SUPERMARKET

Beer, wine, and brandy are available in supermarkets and other foodstores. Meat is sometimes not prepackaged, and you have to ask the butcher for the cut you want. Bread, cheese, and sandwich meats are sold at the baked goods and delicatessen counters, respectively. Customers carry food from the store in their own shopping bags or ask the cashier for a plastic bag (Vrečko, prosim!), for which there is a small charge.

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IN A DEPARTMENT STORE

COSMETICS

Cosmetics and toiletries are available in department stores, supermarkets, pharmacies as well as in a drogerija or parfumerija. In Europe electric voltage is 220. An electric shaver (brivnik) bought in Europe, would be bivoltage (110 and 220 V).

PHOTOGRAPHIC SUPPLIES

All popular brands of films and video-cassettes are sold in Slovenia. Some photo shops will process your prints or slides in an hour. Developing is not included in the price of film.

BOOKS, STATIONERY, RECORDS

JEWELRY

Modern gold jewelry is manufactered by Zlatarna of Celje, with stores in Ljubljana and other cities.

SPORTING GOODS

Elan skis, manufactured in Begunje near Bled enjoy worldwide reputation. High quality Alpina-brand ski boots are manufactured in Žiri. Both firms have factory outlets attached to their plants. You can buy ski equipment and other sporting goods in department stores and in specialized sporting goods stores.

CLOTHING, ACCESSORIES, NOTIONS

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Ladies

Gentlemen

SHOES, SHOE REPAIR

In express shoe-repair shops (ekspres popravilo čevljev) at a department store or elsewhere your shoes can be repaired while you wait. An ordinary shoe-repair shop (čevljarstvo) may do it right away if you ask.